The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Close by, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds gather.
This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above Bristol town centre.
"I've seen people hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of growers who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments across Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Across the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from development by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units inside cities," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a city," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Across the City
Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over 150 plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Environments and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to install a fence on