‘Every Chef Ought to Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.
A Shocking Honour
This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.
“I’m utterly shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.
The Signature Creation: Tantuni
However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.
It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.
Rising Above the Giants
Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
The Creed of Heart
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
A Story of Dedication
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
An Recognition for the People
This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.